Start with the mistake, because it's the expensive one: do not drain your pool before a storm. The water in it is the weight holding the shell in place. With a saturated water table under a drained pool, hydrostatic pressure can lift the structure out of the ground or crack it. Leave the water in. Lowering the level a foot or so is reasonable if serious rainfall is forecast; emptying it is not.
Before the storm, the priority is loose objects and electricity. Furniture, toys, planters, and anything else light enough to move goes indoors or into the garage, never into the pool, where metal and heavy items chip plaster and tile. At the pad, shut off power to the pump, heater, and any automation at the breaker, and if flooding is likely, wrap the motor to keep water out of it.
Chemistry is the last step. Shock the pool and add algaecide beforehand, since you're likely to lose power and circulation for a while, and standing water in Florida heat with no filtration is exactly the condition algae wants. Balanced, over-chlorinated water gives you a buffer to work with.
Afterward, the order matters. Clear the debris out before you turn anything on, because running a pump against a blocked skimmer or a clogged impeller is how a storm turns into an equipment bill. Empty the baskets, net out what you can reach, and only then restore power and check that the pump primes and holds pressure.
Then expect the chemistry to be wrong. Heavy rain dilutes stabilizer and drops chlorine, and the organic debris a storm dumps in consumes what's left, so a pool can go from clear to green within a couple of days of a storm passing. Test, shock, run the filter hard, and clean it more often than usual for the next week or two. A pool caught early takes a day to bring back; one left for a fortnight takes a recovery.